Day 13 – Three minutes late

Nice cat at campsite this morning, very friendly.

Packed up and cycled into Tourtoirac. Bought breakfast pastries from a lovely boulangerie and ate them at a friendly brasserie with coffee.

Started with a climb that wasn’t too steep but it went on for 10 miles. We were rewarded with enormous far-reaching views which gave a real sense of height. It was very sunny and hot.

Arrived in a small village called Beauregard de Something. Took a tiny detour to look at an interesting small chateau. Turned out to be an uphill waste of time as there were no good views of it. A little further along the main street we found an epicerie/bar/café. Turned into the small car park and checked the door as we cycled past. The sign said Open – hurrah, some lunch! Leaned our bikes against a wall and headed to the door. The sign had been turned around to say Closed. The shop closed at 12.30 and it was 12:33. Just three minutes late – arse!

I started searching on my phone for the next option along the route while Jackie stood outside the door looking dejected. There were still some people inside.

Then Lunchtime Shop Man™️ came out to see if he could help. He said he’d seen us on his security camera and was worried we might need food after cycling up the hill. He took us into his shop and we very quickly chose some simple lunch. Sat outside to eat and he showed us a box where we could put his cups when we’d finished. Then he and his wife left in their car, waving as they went. Some people are so very wonderful.

A little more climbing and then a fantastic descent that went on for ages. Really very fast indeed. Top funs! At the bottom we stopped at a tabac at a busy crossroads and sat outside with a coca-cola each.

I usually avoid caffeine. A full-fat coke with caffeine and sugar was enough to power me up to warp speed for all of the 7 mile flat ride to Montignac Lascaux. It was a beautiful town, ancient buildings either side of a river. We explored a little and ate ice creams.

Next a scenic ride beside the river followed by some predominantly flat countryside until we reached the final climb of the day. Much smaller than this morning’s 10-miler but still very hard work with the sun beating down and temperature up to 32. Finally a downhill ride all the way to our destination of Saint-Léon-sur-Vézère.

Cycled straight to the campsite. Reception closed at 18:30. It was 18:33. We were 3 minutes late again!! This time there was no reprieve, the door was locked and staff had gone.

We pitched our tent anyway and some ducks came to welcome us. It was a municipal site; small, simple and basic but very lovely and right beside a river. We each took a cold shower to get some relief from the intense heat of the day and washed our dirty clothes. I stepped straight into the shower in my cycling clothes. I hadn’t anticipated that a wet cycling shirt is extremely clingy and very difficult to remove. It was a bit like being stuck in a dress (and we’ve all been there at some time haven’t we!! Haven’t we?)

Explored the village on foot. Had free-range chicken burgers with curry sauce, chips, green salad and a nice little rosé. Finished eating and rain started. There was a beautiful rainbow behind the brasserie. Un arc en ciel.

To bed at 22:00, knackered but extremely happy – we both felt it was the most enjoyable day of our trip so far. It was certainly the fastest too, with our highest average speed to date.

Miles today: 37

Total miles: 496

Metres climbed: 812

Good things today: