Day 20 – Gimme shelter

Breakfast at the hotel: hot chocolate, fresh baguette, lashings of unsalted butter, honey and confiture.

Had morning showers just because we could. Packed up and headed out on the road.

Two significant climbs today. The first started after a couple of miles on the flat to get warmed up, very convenient. It was long and slow but not as punishing as some of our earlier climbs primarily because the weather was quite a bit cooler, low 20s I think, and also the gradient was steep but not madly so. It was a case of just plodding on and on patiently.

Just before we reached the peak the predicted rain started, fairly heavily. A few minutes later we came across a small village where we had a coffee in a brasserie, then bought pain au choc from an epicerie opposite and ate them in the rain. We set off again on our bikes and then the rain got really serious. Absolutely chucking it down. We reached the top of the hill, the highest point around, and then the thunder and lightning started. Uh-oh! We did our best to outrun the storm but the rain just got heavier as we charged across the hilltop. Soon the downhill section started and we picked up enough speed to leave the rain behind us. It was a very long and fast descent and our sodden clothes were pretty much dry by the time we got to the bottom.

Rode through a very picturesque little village with d’Olt in its name. Carried on to Saint-Geniez-d’Olt, a large village (or small town) where we found a wonderful snack bar. We had lunch there while we waited for the rain to pass. We had to wait two hours. There was another thunder storm with an almost impossible quantity of water dropping from the sky. The full width of the café was open at the front giving us a great view of the downpour. We ate ice creams and played table football. There were 13 balls. At the end of the game the score was 7 each. Not sure how that happened and found it difficult to explain in French when the bar lady wanted to know who had won.

Up the next big climb. It had a profile like steps with extremely steep bits followed by short almost flat sections. We rode through a lot of woodland and saw waterfalls, bridges and amazing views. The downhill ride was fast and fun with switchbacks.

Arrived in St Laurent d’Olt. We had a beer in a bar that clearly hadn’t changed much in decades. We were the only customers. The barman seemed rather shy but indulged in some French conversation with us and was very likeable.

Back outside for the last short stretch to our campsite. A herd of cows was approaching us over a bridge, cajoled by several men with sticks and one man sitting in the back of a slow moving pickup, feeding just one cow who I guess was the influencer that the others all followed. We watched them pass the bar. Then a man drove past in a ridiculously tiny car. An enormous white dog completely filled the back and the whole sight was hilariously incongruous. Then we got on our bikes and followed the bovine/canine madness for a while.

Eventually we arrived at the campsite. Very friendly helpful staff. We chose a really lovely pitch by the fast flowing river that looked as if it may flood the campsite at any moment. The river was very frogulous and they made a lot of noise.

We had dinner outside at the campsite in the evening sun. A fabulous kebab for me and for Jackie a cheese and mushroom tartine. Delicious. Shared a plate of profiteroles for dessert. My French now extends to asking for one dessert with two spoons. A good end to a really fun day that had made us both feel extremely happy.

A quick shower and then to bed, listening to the sound of the river. Frogs had shut up for the night.

Miles cycled: 31

Total miles: 684

Metres climbed: 785

Goood things today: